New study shows favourable conditions for mechanical textile recycling
Reducing the carbon footprint of clothing and other textiles requires a value chain that enables reuse and recycling. One link in that chain is facilities for mechanical textile recycling - something Sweden lacks. As part of BioInnovation's textile initiative, IVL Swedish Environmental Research Institute has now investigated the potential of such an establishment, and the calculations point to a favourable business case.
"There are a lot of resources and emissions to be saved, I would be surprised if we don't have a mechanical recycling plant in Sweden within a few years", says Johan Strandberg, the study's project manager at IVL Swedish Environmental Research Institute.
The technology for mechanical textile recycling is tried and tested. It involves tearing textiles into fibres sold for use in new products. There are plants all over Europe, but not in Sweden. The IVL study shows that a mechanical textile recycling plant in Sweden would be economically and environmentally favourable.
“Textile recycling is always preferable, but mechanical recycling is a climate-efficient technology when it is not an option. Such a plant is important for a well-functioning circular ecosystem for textile waste and can eventually reduce the climate impact of textiles”, says Erik Perzon, a textile expert at IVL.
The calculations show that the climate impact of mechanically recycled cotton fibre in Sweden is 70-300 kg of carbon dioxide equivalents per tonne of fibre. This compares to 500-4.000 carbon dioxide equivalents per tonne of fibre produced from virgin cotton fibre.
According to the study, factors such as transport, energy prices, labour or premises costs do not prevent a Swedish establishment from being economically and environmentally justified. The calculations are based on current conditions, including the low use of non-fossil fuels in transport and that textiles currently have to be sent abroad for sorting. The study also evaluates how the plant's geographical location affects the results.
“No matter where the plant is located in Sweden, mechanically recycled fibre is always better than new. The biggest challenge related to the establishment is accessing a homogeneous and predictable material stream. Hospital clothes and workwear from the industry are very interesting in this context. They would be a good start while building an infrastructure for collecting and sorting textile waste. For the actor or actors who can see and utilise this potential, there are good opportunities for good business while significantly reducing the textile industry's environmental impact”, says Johan Strandberg.
For more information, please contact:
Johan Strandberg, johan.strandberg@ivl.se, tel. 010-788 65 98
Erik Perzon, erik.perzon@ivl.se, tel. 010-788 65 70